Baixa - Museu, 150 Mt. In the threshold of legality - "the Municipality only makes things hard for us" (o Município só nos dificulta)

I left later from work today, around 8 pm. I saw a "txopela" in a corner close to where I work. The driver was busy texting on his phone. I approached and asked if he was waiting for someone. He looked around and pointed to the other side of the road while explaining that he was with a client, but I could take a "txopela" just across from him.

-"Take one of those, you can take one of them", he said solicitous.

I crossed to where two "txopelas" were parked. One seemed empty, so I approached the one with a driver inside. As I looked inside the driver turned around and unzipped the plastic "door". The driver of the other "txopela" stepped out and I was told to get in.

I asked the price for taking me home, and explained where abouts "home" was. We exchanged a few city markers and he said he knew where to take me and confirmed the price, 150 Mt. When he started driving I commented that it was a bit late and asked him how late did he usually stay . He said that he usually stopped working at 8:30.

-"But it is practically 8:30", I said.
-"This will be my last ride, then."
-"What about your colleague?" - I wondered.
-"He will wait for a client, so he has an excuse to leave."
-"What if no client comes?"
-"He will eventually give up."

He explained that this time of the year it is difficult to have clients at night, because of the school break. When it is school time they have clients from ISCTEM and Escola Nautica. I thought it was a long way for people to come from Escola Nautica. He explained that there were no "txopelas" between where they were parked and the school, so the students would in fact walk to them.

I asked if they were a formal square, and commented that there seemed to be quite a few stops where "txopelas" would congregate, all within the same block. He confirmed that his was a square, and that they were waiting for the Municipality to demarcate the place to make it a formal square. He also agreed that there were two many "spots" for concentration. He gave me an example of a group that would stop across the street from them. The Municipality requested that they all congregate at the corner. At the same time there was a case of a square that "txopelas" requested for themselves, and the Municipality after demarcation attributed it to taxis.

Licensing is not easy, he explained. Usually companies with at least five "txopelas" take precedence. Placement in squares is also difficult because when they go to the Municipality they say that there is no place in the existing squares. So the "txopelas" take the initiative and stop where they think they will get the best business. Once there are enough of them they request the spot to become a square.

They also organise in queues like taxis. Even though it seems they are parked haphazardly, they know who has been there first. At his square, they even have a notebook where they sign the name as they arrive to avoid skirmishes when a client requests a service. Once one leaves, the others erase the name from the notebook. When he comes back he registers it again.

-"And when all leave, who holds the notebook?"
-"It stays there. There is a young man who sells King Pie. He is always there. He holds on to the notebook."

A 'patrão' never loses

Today, on my way to work I saw a curious "txopela". Instead of the habitual yellow and green colors, it was painted blue and branded by Bosch. I couldn't resist. I stopped to talk to the driver. He a young man in his mid twenties. As I was in a hurry, I took his number and promised to call him later. I called him mid-morning and we agreed that he would come by my office's building at lunch time. He came by as promised. I was in a meeting, so we agreed to meet later on, after he ran an errand.

He wasn't sure what my intentions were, and I had to explain again. I had done it once during our morning encounter. I assured him that his identity would remain anonymous. I asked to tape our conversation, and he reluctantly agreed.

My main curiosity was to understand how was it that the company had approached him to advertise on his "txopela".

-"These bikes here belong to a company", he explained.
-"Oh, it is not yours?"
-"Some 'whites' bought these bikes, and [than] they talk to a certain company, so they do the advertising, set up this and give to people who have a contract, for them to work. But this advertisement is paid to them [the owners].
-"And you, who work for them, do you take what you make or do you have a salary?"
-"We don't have a salary" - he laughed nervously.
-"You don't have a salary? How is it, then?"
-"In the bike, it is a contract. They determine the time. They say: 'for this set of time you will give me this much daily, when the time is up the bike is yours'."
-"Ok! And during that time you get nothing?"
-"You get nothing."
-"And how long do you have to stay with the bike?"
-"Two years."
-"Two years... without receiving anything? Isn't it something like... I have heard from others something like this: during the day you make something that you must give him, the remainder is yours."
-"That's it. That's exactly it."
-"It's the same system?" - I asked. He nodded in agreement. "Ok", I added "for two years... how long have you had this bike? How long do you have left?"
-"Hey... There is still a long time left, because I only have it for six months."
-"Six months? There is a year and a half to go." - I laughed.
-"There is still a long time to go", he insisted laughing along.

I then became curious about how he had become a driver.

-"Through a friend... he gave me the number of the 'boss'. I talked to him, pressured, and he ended up accepting me. Then I went to take the bike."
-"Does he have many bikes?"
-"He has Milo, Nido, Bosch, 'Maheu'... I think aroung 40 or 30 something..."
-"Bikes?", I asked surprised. "Him, just him? And when someone gets a bike [after the stipulated period], does he buy a new one?"
-"Exactly."
-"And he always does a rotation?"
-"He actually has some bikes that are about to be let go."

I moved on to his work station.

-"You told me before that you don't have a square. How do you do it? Do you have your own clients?"
-"I have a square!", he laughed out. "It's just nowadays it is difficult to manage."
-"Manage what, a square?"
-"No! It is difficult to stay in one place. You can stay there 2, 3, 4, 5 hours without anyone coming and getting on."
-"So, how do you do, then? Do you prefer to drive around?"
-"I prefer to drive around."
-"Yes, I saw you had a client there and another..." I pointed to two opposing directions.
He laughed wholeheartedly and explained that he had to pick up a package in one of the points.

-"So, are you done with your day?" - it was just before 3 pm.
-"Not yet", he laughed again.

He had been dropping a women in the morning, and then another at lunch time. I moved on to types of clients.

-"Who exactly are your clients? Women, men, students?"
-"It depends. But I have set clients who call me every day."
-"And what are your prospects in this work?"
-"I usually say that three months ago it helped. Now it is very difficult."
-"What is the problem?"
-"There is no money!"
-"There are no clients?"
-"There are clients, but actually I can say that there are no clients. Because, those who used to get on [now] don't because there is no 'dough'. You go around and see: 'this one got on to the 'txopela' yesterday, today he is..."
-"...on foot."
-"Walking, yes."
-"Three months; things started getting worse three months ago..."
-"Yes, the situation is a bit chaotic."
-"So, how do you see your future?"
-"I don't know, but I hope it will improve."
-"How did you adapt? These three months when there is less money, did you change anything or do you work as you used to?"
-"No, I had to change something... Like what? Sometimes I go home at 10 pm."
-"They don't complain back home?" - I asked looking at his wife who was sitting in the back of the 'txopela' throughout the interview. She looked at me with a half smile.
-"Complaining or not, she sees the situation", he said laughing nervously. "There is no option, I have to double the effort."

I thanked him and we both went our ways. I learned much in the 5 minutes that lasted our talk.

Sommershield - Museu, 200 Mt

Came out from a long needed waxing session undecided whether to get a transport or walk home. But the winter darkness setting in early decided for me. As if by fate, I saw in the dark the unmistakable flashing blinker of a "txopela". Likely it was waiting for someone, because it wasn't parked properly, and it was flashing as if ready to leave. 

Got near him and stroke up a conversation. He was indeed, waiting for a client. Was willing to call for a colleague that would have to come from the direction I was going to, and that would take a while. Unfortunately, he didn't know of anyone who worked in the vicinity, but advised that I could probably just sign a "txopela" down at the main road down the block.

I doubted, because I had tried once before and I walked a long way before I could find a "txopela". Most of the ones passing were already carrying clients. But, I thanked him anyway and prepared to go on my way. I asked if he had a card. He asked for my number so he could message me with his number. I might get him another time.

I headed down the block to the main road. When I drove past this road earlier, it was full of taxis. I had even commented to my colleagues in the ride that when I needed a taxi in that road I could never find one. And as I had expected, now there was none to be seen. As if reading my mind, a voice in the dark shout out: "taxi"? I turned around surprised and repeated "taxi"?

The man, who was sitting on a side-walk bumper jumped up and confirmed if I really wanted a taxi. I asked if there were taxis there, because I could see none. He pointed to a car in a different color than the standard yellow and green. I walked to the car, agreed on the fee and got in.

"Are you disguised"?, I asked as soon as he started driving. He laughed and explained that the car was new and he hadn't had the time to paint it over. In any event, the taxis available at that time worked mostly with set agreements with companies, and now they were just "in the corner hanging out, passing the time and talking among friends." 

-"But is there a taxi square there"?, I continued.

-"There is", he responded, "it's just that the Municipality hasn't painted over after it arranged the sidewalk. But there is one from a long time ago".

He was talkative. Told me he was in the business at least three years. The square was there for at least seven years. He preferred to work for companies. I assume that it means a steadier income. I told him I was doing research on hired transport in Mozambican cities. He explained that the life of a taxi driver is not easy. "One needs to have the head on the right place, in order to manage the income", because there are days that one doesn't get a single ride. I told him I knew some people worked for other people. He agreed that indeed some managed to get a second car , and so hire people to help. But it was not ideal, because "you need to make your money and than the money for the 'patrão', as well. For example you can work for a week and make a lot of money, but still owe money."

-"So the goal is always to get your own car"?

-"That is the goal."

-"I heard of examples in which that can happen in 6 months, 1 or 2 years..."

-"Maximum 2 years. If you are really focused, that can happen in 2 years."